My family here is often amazed at the stuff I know how to do by myself, and the stuff I’m not afraid of doing. This stuff can be anything from knowing how to wash dishes, to knowing how to play an instrument, to not being afraid to bike all the way to the provincial town by myself in the baking sun. What they DON’T know, is I have a slight... marketphobia. I noticed this condition for the first time during training in Takeo. I LOVED going to the market with other Americans, browsing the Engrish shirts, trying new snacks, and practicing bartering for our necessities. But often when I went alone I feared the deafening silence that would always happen as soon as I walked in. Staring is not rude here. Look all you want, and don’t even bother to hide it! Conversations stop, and they just watch you. Sometimes they’re smiling. Usually not. And honestly, I know it’s not because they are territorial or in any way upset by my presence. They are just curious. But still, I’m not used to it. So I always felt like I couldn’t just browse around… to much attention! I had to get what I needed and get outta there.
Too much attention you say? But you’re in the PEACE CORPS! Meaning you’re the only person who doesn’t look like them probably for MILES! Of course you’re gonna get attention.
Yes but the market is attention x10. It’s so enclosed and its so packed with people. There’s no escape!
The market in my permanent site is actually even worse. Here, I’m positive there has NEVER been a foreigner to walk the paths of the market. So when I go to the market, jaws drop, dirty men laugh, babies cry.. you get the picture. Also, my market is a little flooded right now. Its actually just all mud. It’s nearly impossible to keep your balance in there. Once I fell right onto some raw pork. Good times.
Once you spot what you need to buy, like laundry soap or a pen, you’re usually okay. The seller will likely crack a smile, make some joke about you knowing Khmer, and laugh really hard as you try to barter. But, now you’ve broken the silence. Now you have a different problem. Now all the market ladies are swarming around you petting you, trying to talk to you, and talking about what you just bought and how much you paid for it.
Even if you do manage to be discreet about buying something, everyone will still know about it. You’re the only foreigner in town. When a seller says “the foreigner bought a hamper”, within 15 minutes, everyone will know. And then wherever you are, you can be sure it will come back to you. A mere hour after your purchase, someone will say “Oh, so I hear you bought a hamper!” Word travels at the speed of light in Cambodia.
So, needless to say, I do not go to the market all that often. At least not yet. I am working on this fear. In fact, I have come to find that I really like the market in Prey Vang and the one in Ang Tasom. I will tackle my fear of my market once the flooding goes down. In the meantime- its on a need-to-go basis.
I have a need to buy a chamber pot. What’s a chamber pot? It’s what you pee into in the middle of the night, because you don’t have access to the bathroom that’s either outside or locked on the other side of the house. But if I go to the market to buy a chamber pot, you can be SURE that will be the talk of the town for a while. I’ll have to buy one next time a go to Prey Vang, where I have a little more anonymity.
What kinds of things can you buy at markets? Nearly everything. Lots of food- cooked and uncooked. Obviously you go to the market to buy ingredients, buy you can also go to sit and have a meal, or just have a snack. There’s all kinds of desserts, sticky rice cakes, and drinks. You can buy clothes, and you can have clothes tailored. There are bookstores where you can buy little notebooks, pens, and whiteout (Khmer students cant live without whiteout). There are shoe stores, bag stores, soap stores, toy stores, silverware stores, bike stores, fishing stores, and more.
Diana, what’s a bucket bath actually like?
Oh a good question, I’m glad you asked. It’s actually not as uncivilized as it sounds lol. Or maybe I’m just totally used to it already. So here are the steps. Take note, this is important.
1. Change outta your sweaty clothes into your sarong. If you don’t know how to tie a sarong, ask your host mother. She will laugh at you, and she will touch your boobs, but she will be a good teacher.
2. Wrap your towel around your shoulders, grab your basket of soaps, and head to the bathroom.
3. Hang your stuff on the wall and take your spot next to the big water basin. (There is no tub. The whole room is the tub. There is a drain somewhere on the floor)
4. Grab that little plastic bucket with a handle, fill it with water, and dump that baby over your head.
5. Keep your mouth shut. Or you might eat mosquito larvae. Or malaria.
6. Lather rinse repeat.
7. Dry off. Put your sarong back on. Go back to your room. Turn on your fan and stand naked next your fan for a few minutes and pretend its air conditioning. Get dressed. Mission accomplished.
No matter how sweaty you are, those first few buckets over the head are cold. If you are already chilly or normal temperature, it is shockingly cold, and takes some self-pep-talking. This is why I choose to take my bath right after I get home from running. It feels gooood.
Peeasaa Khmer taa mych? Taking a bath in Khmer is “muyt tuk” I like to put English grammer on it. For example, I muyt tuked, or I enjoy muyt tuking.
One time during dinner I tried to make a joke that I smell bad (that’s always funny in America, but apparently in Cambodia that’s a serious accusation). They then spent the next 5 minutes assuring me that I do not smell bad because I know how to muyt tuk and wash my clothes. What can I say, I’m an expert muyt tuker.
Next time on “What’s it actually like”- Doing laundry!
Otherwise, nothing new really to report. I gave myself a couple hours of alone time vacation on Tuesday. I just biked to the provincial town and did my own thing. I had some lunch, iced coffee, ice cream, and I just sat and relaxed and studied some Khmer. I also did go to the market, but that was mostly enjoyable this time around. Teaching is going pretty well. I might be starting my first secondary project this week, which is a beginner English class for adults. We’ll see how that goes.
1. Diana and the puppy named Diana! (You know your a successful Peace Corps volunteer when something is named after you. I think many volunteers go for buildings. I'm cool with the dog).
2-4. Beautiful sunset in my front yard in Takeo.
5. Me and my host sister in Takeo the day I visited her at work. I just came from picking up trash at the school. Sorry I look so terrible compared to her! But yeah, she's gorgeous aint she?
6. Independence monument in Phnom Penh.
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